Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Durian Durian - or who cut the cheese?

Durian Fruit. Synonymous with foodies all over the world as the dreadful smelling, often misunderstood fruit with a cult-like following. You may have heard the myths, the legends about the Durian Fruit; how the fruit could clear out an entire room with its smell, that you can't drink alcohol while consuming the durian or you body will become so hot that you will feel as if you were on fire, and that it is one of the best tasting fruits in the world.


Well, I had to try it for myself....and see what all the "stink" was about.


First off, the durian is a big fruit. Weighing approximately 7lbs, its like a spikier watermelon. The shell is so rough, that the spines from the fruit easily ripped through the plastic bag it was brought home from the supermarket in. (Good old H-Mart, in Little Ferry, NJ). It wasn't "cheap", as it cost me nearly $9 for the fruit. It would, however, have a high yield and would feed quite a few people.


Once I found the proper spot to open the Durian (usually along a dark lined area that appears on the fruit after a day or so), I plunged my chef's knife into the fruit and slit it in half...

Immediately I was overcome by a very strong smell, very much like sulfur or a freshly laid fart. I wish I could come up with a better description, but after careful consideration that really is the best one for the smell. Thinking to myself that if the aroma matched the taste, this would possibly be the most vile thing I had ever eaten. I decided to venture forward anyway...

Carefully exposing the soft, milky white flesh of the fruit itself, I grabbed a spoon and scooped out some. Similar in texture to custard or rice pudding, I placed the contents of the spoon into my mouth. To my surprise, the flavor was pretty tasty! Tasting very much like a cross between a mango and a honey dew melon, it was sweet and subtle, with a milky, creamy aftertaste and sweet finish. As for the texture, I can't say I was a big fan, but I tend not to like custard like foods anyway.

I cut the melon into quarters, and kept on eating. The more of the durian I ate, the more I likened it to a soft cheese, like a fruity brie or Pierre Robert. The flavor really was quite good, but the smell was so strong that it was hard to make sense of the two together. I decided then and there that this was the strangest thing I have ever tasted to date.

All fear now dispelled, I think I understand the Durian and all its stinky goodness. While I didn't become one of those durian-hooked addicts, I did appreciate how unique its flavor was. I think that if a chef used the Durian fruit with a combination of some coconut milk, or cream in an application like a smoothie or creamy dessert where the aroma could be dissipated by the cooking or other ingredients, the Durian could really shine.


I hope that my research into the Durian will help people out there understand this fruit a little better, and take it more out of the exotic strange food land. While I wouldn't recommend it to everyone, hardcore foodies might find it strangely amazing or utterly revolting. But until you have tried it, I don't think there is anything else quite like it in the world.

The durian in its mesh bag

The spike laden Durian Fruit, ready to be cut open

The halved Durian. You can see the multiple chambers containing the white flesh


The Durian flesh

Friday, February 19, 2010

Chinese Lacquered Spare RIbs

Just a short post right now, but I found an old picture of some Chinese Spare Ribs I had made, and they just looked so good that I couldn't resist posting the picture.

A quick marinade with soy sauce, a splash of yuzu juice, garlic, ginger, ketchup, chili flakes, siracha, & honey, and some time overnight to absorb the flavors; then slow cooked in the oven at 3:25. Basted with a reduced marinade, the ribs were tender and deliciously hot and sweet.





Saturday, February 6, 2010

How to Cook Mussels!

Mussels are one of my favorite things to make when I crave a simple seafood dish, as long as they are fresh and of the very best quality. Simple and delicious, they are an almost sexy dish to prepare, and its easy for even the most basic home cook. Just as important as the mussels are having a good, crisp and very cold glass of Muscadet to go with them. Mussels are very easy to prepare, but often times I think people are scared to make them at home because they aren't sure if they are getting fresh mussels, or cooking the correctly.

With the following steps, you will make a mussels appetizer that will make any food critic happy. Sometimes the simplest things in life are truly the best.




Inexpensive Muscadet is an amazing pairing with mussels. Normally I would remove the price sticker from a bottle before serving it, but I wanted to show everyone that a really good wine doesn't have to break the bank.

Super sexy mussels cooked in white wine, shallots, garlic, and parsley.

Remove the mussels from the pan with a slotted spoon into a bowl. Cover with the sauce from the pan. Serve hot, with cold glasses of the Muscadet wine. Enjoy!


Add the mussels to the pan. Stir, and cover. Cook over medium heat until all the mussels have opened. Add some chopped parsley, and mix well.

Open up that Muscadet you bought, and drink a glass. Add 1/2 cup or so of the wine to the pan, and stir until the whole thing looks creamy. Add 2 tablespoons of water, and stir. Bring to a simmer.
This is what the sauce should start to look like. Add 2 tablespoons more of butter, and melt over medium heat, constantly stirring.


In a large pan (we call it a rondeau) add 1 tablespoon of butter, and melt over low heat. Mince one large shallot, and add to the pan. Add 3 cloves garlic, minced. Add a few parsley stems, about 1 to 2" long, and reserve the parlsey leaves. (mince these, as you will add them later). Sweat the shallots, garlic and parlsey stems over medium heat, until soft.

Start with 2 lbs. of mussels, fresh and clean. Check for freshness by appearance, all the mussels are closed, and there is a clean, sea smell. Anything that smells fishy is bad. Clean the mussels in cold water, removing any debris, or "beards" on the mussels. Set aside, and cover with a damp paper towel.